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When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.